Setting and Metal Types

When choosing a setting, there are two things to consider: metal type and style.

The two most common types of metal used in settings are platinum and gold. Neither is better than the other, there are just different benefits unique to each type.

Platinum is considered a fine metal for jewelry use. It is more rare than gold and is 90-95% pure. Because of this, its color will never fade. In addition, it is extremely durable and can be made into smaller structures. It is considered very tough, which means there is no concern for breaking, cracking, or chipping. It also has an extremely low metal memory. In other words, once platinum is molded into its new shape, it has very little to no tendency to form back into its original state.

While platinum is not considered heavy, its weight is almost twice that of 14k white gold. Unfortunately, platinum does not have a high level of hardness. Unlike toughness, hardness is the measure of resistance to scratching.

Platinum, because of its purity, can be easily scratched, which causes its luster, or shine, to fade over time; however, simple polishing maintenance can make it look like new.

White gold, unlike platinum is not actually white. It is a mixture of gold, copper, nickel or palladium, and zinc.

This alloy creates a metal that has a yellowish tint. In order for white gold to look a brilliant platinum in color, it needs to be plated with rhodium.

Over time, the rhodium will fade and the metal shows its natural color. Because of this, maintenance is needed once every year or two, depending on the condition and wear of the jewelry. Unlike platinum, white gold does not scratch easily. This is because of the other metals present in the mixture. Ultimately, it depends on the type of maintenance preferred and the lifestyle of the wearer.

When choosing a setting, the second decision is the type of style.

Typically, there are four types of styles: solitaire, three stone, modern, and vintage.

Solitaire is exactly how it sounds. The ring features a single stone in the center with no other stones on the ring. This type of setting is classic and will never go out of style.

A three-stone ring carries a special meaning. Featuring three stones, each stone represents the past, present, and future of the relationship. Typically, the center stone is larger than the two side stones. This is also a timeless style.

The third style of settings is modern. This type often features bezel set or channel set diamonds with a high polish.

An antique setting often features pave set diamonds, millgrain, and filagrae. A halo of diamonds around the center stone is also quite common.

When examining the jewelry the wearer has already, notice how simple, intricate, or eclectic the style is. Does she like big and flashy things or simple and elegant? In addition, her personality should also reflect the type of jewelry that will be right for her.

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