Blood Diamonds

While many people were unaware of conflict diamonds until the 2006 movie, “Blood Diamond”, the initial rise to the media began in the early 1990ʼs just a decade before.

A conflict, or commonly known as blood, diamonds are illegally traded to fund conflict in areas torn by war. According to the United Nations, they are “diamonds that originate from areas controlled by forces or factions opposed to legitimate and internationally recognized governments, and are used to fund military action in opposition to those governments, or in contravention of the decisions of the Security Council.”

Most commonly, conflict diamonds have been used to fund conflict in Sierra Leone, Angola, Liberia, Ivory Coast, the Democratic Republic of Congo and the Republic of Congo. During the 1990ʼs, conflict diamonds represented about 4% of the worldʼs diamond production. Today because of action by the United Nations, it has been reduced to 1%. During the brutal civil wars of each of these counties, the livelihoods of their people were greatly threatened. Some diamonds have contributed in the destroying of lives of millions.

To show the world the global diamond industry its zero tolerance policy towards conflict diamonds, the Kimberley Process of Certification System was created. Formally adopted in 2003, it guards against these diamonds entering the diamond supply chain. The industry also created a voluntary System of Warranties in order to provide assurance for customers.

One of the most significant items decided from the Kimberley Process was the endorsement of the Brussels Declaration. The primary goal through this declaration was the support of internal controls of those involved with rough diamond trading and manufacturing. This gives counsel for record keeping, spot checking, inspections of imports and exports as well as the maintenance of rough diamond inventory records. This was implemented further with specific actions for each of countries involved. The majority of diamonds come from countries at peace that use the revenue to develop schools, hospitals, and infrastructure to the countries they come from. However, with diamonds used to fund conflict, it is the rebels exploit them to achieve unlawful objectives.

To ensure the absence of conflict free diamonds in the industry, there is a five step process. After rough diamonds are mined, they are delivered to Government Diamond Offices. Upon arrival, the Kimberley Process begins and the origin is checked and then sealed and placed into tamper resistant containers. Continuing with the Kimberley Process, diamonds are only imported into one of the 74 approved countries and proceed to the customs office. Any diamond without proper certificate and seals, they are turned back or impounded. After legitimate transportation, the diamond is ready for manufacturing. It can be traded, cut and polished, and set into beautiful pieces of jewelry. Each time a stone trades hands, the proper warranty must accompany it (system of warranties) and the exchange must be documented and kept for 5 years.

Lastly, retailers are responsible for auditing the system of warranties, as well as document and keep a record of the purchase for 5 years. While the warranty is not required on a customerʼs receipt, continuing the execution of these practices will continue to ensure the source of diamonds are conflict free.

At InStyle Diamonds, all of our diamonds are 100% conflict free. To view our selection of conflict free diamonds at the best wholesale prices visit http://www.instylediamonds.com/rt/sform.pl?cfg=adi.

Certified Vs Non-Certified

No two stones are exactly alike, which can make shopping for one somewhat difficult. One of the most significant attributes of the selection process is whether or not the stone is certified. Certification is the written proof of a stone's unique characteristics.

The greatest benefit of purchasing a certified stone is that you have written documentation that the stone has the exact specifications that the jeweler claims the stone to be. Purchasing a non-certified stone for this reason alone can be quite alarming, especially if your knowledge is limited on diamonds and gemstones. In addition, this helps with acquiring an appraisal.

For diamonds, the certification lists not only the date the stone was certified but whether or not it has an inscription, the shape and cutting style, measurements, carat weight, color grade, clarity grade, cut grade, the polish and symmetry, and the fluorescence. In addition, many certifications include a diagram, called a plot, indicating the exact locations of inclusions as well as the type of inclusion. It also provides you with the diamonds proportions and, perhaps one of the most significant qualities to look for, whether or not the stone is damaged or color treated.

The type of certification is something to be considered as well. The three major certifications that exist are from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), European Gemological Laboratory (EGL), and American Gem Society (AGS). Here at Inta Gems we consider the AGS to have the most strict guidelines and to be extremely credible; however, the GIA is probably the most well-renowned insitution. In fact, most of our stones have certifications from the GIA.

Guidelines from the AGS and GIA are much more strict than the EGL. In some cases, we have noticed EGL certified stones color to vary in a half or full grade in difference when compared to GIA or AGS. Because of this reason, it is suggested that when purchasing an EGL certified stone, that you strive for a higher quality diamond.

Purchasing certified can have a great impact on the price of the stone, which can be as much as $100-$125 per carat. The type of certification can also create a difference in price. Because EGL certified stones tend to be a little lower in quality in comparison to AGS or GIA certified stones, the price can be a little lower.

Purchasing non-certified, also has some excellent benefits. Non-certified stones are significantly less in price. The most identifiable negative to purchasing non-certified; however, is that the stone having qualities that you are not aware of. To avoid this, always go to a reputable jeweler with years of education and experience on diamonds and of course the industry.

According to FTC guidelines, jewelers are required to label color, clarity, and cut grades accurately within one grade. If you are on a budget but would like to purchase a higher quality diamond, purchasing a non-certified stone from a jeweler you trust is a great way to save money. At InStyle Diamonds, not only can you purchase certified and non-certified diamonds, but at wholesale prices as well.

To view our selection of certified and non-certified diamonds at wholesale prices visit http://www.instylediamonds.com/rt/sform.pl?cfg=adi.

There are plenty of stones that are very inexpensive, but also have the guarantee that your purchase has value.

How Do They Cut Diamonds?

Cutting a diamond is the only factor that is under human control; the rest is created by nature. Because of this, diamond manufacturing has become an art of its own. Even if a diamond has a D color grade and a flawless clarity grade, the beauty of the diamond can easily be offset by a bad cut grade. To learn more about diamond cut grade visit

http://instylediamondsblog.blogspot.com/2010/03/deeper-look-at-diamond-cut-grades.html.

Before the mid 1300s, rough diamonds we not cut. It was actually believed that is was bad luck to cut a natural stone. The people before this time had no idea what beauty laid beneath the surface of these rough stones. The first cutting procedures were extremely simple and resembled octahedral crystals. These stones were a basic four-sided cut. Further in time, diamond cutting evolved to the table cut, the single cut, the old mine cut, the old European cut, and now the modern brilliant cut. The single cut style laid the ground work for the modern brilliant cut because if revealed that more facets meant more brilliance. The current modern round brilliant cut diamond includes a round outline, symmetrical triangular and kite-shaped facets, a table, and sometimes a culet. This particular shape of a diamond is evaluated more strictly than any other diamond shape.

The first step in the cutting process is planning. Unlike popular belief, the decision to cut a diamond in a certain shape is actually because of the natural shape of the rough stone. While technology has created a lot of progress in the diamond manufacturing industry, diamond cutting is still a difficult task that requires an immense amount of knowledge and experience.

The goal in the manufacturing process is to produce a diamond with the best cut, saving the most carat weight, and at the lowest production costs possible. This is what makes planning one of the most crucial parts of the cutting process.

A planner decides where to mark the rough stone for fashioning into the most beautiful and profitable diamond. Factors of size, clarity, and crystal direction all play an important role in this process. An incorrect decision by as little as a fraction of a millimeter can sometimes make a difference of thousands of dollars. In fact, if cut in the wrong place in the wrong position, a diamond could shatter and therefore become worthless.

The second step in the cutting process is cleaving or sawing. After careful planning and marking where the diamond is to be but, it can be manually cleaved.

Sawing can be done manually with a diamond-coated rotary saw or by a laser. The reason for the diamond-coating is because diamonds are considered the hardness known substance to man; therefore, it is often said that the only thing that can cut a diamond is another diamond. This is true in the fact that without the diamond-coating, the rotary saw could not cut cleave a saw by itself.

The third process is bruting. This process created the basic face-up outline of the diamond before faceting. During this phase of cutting, the diamond is spun on a rotating lathe while another diamond is forced against it. This gradually forms the outline.

After bruting is the final stage of the cutting process which is polishing. This phase creates the finished proportions. During the polishing stage, there can actually be more stages to develop a beautiful stone. Most significantly is the blocking. Here a diamondʼs basic symmetry if created and the first 17 or 18 facets are made. The process ends here for very small diamonds. For larger stones, they continue to the brillianteering stage. The final facets of a stone are polished by a specialist called a brillianteer. This final step in the manufacturing process will determine the amount of brilliance and fire the diamond possesses. Any type of inconsistencies, whether large or small, can easily make a diamond look dull.

Many consumers have heard the term, heart and arrows. These shapes are visible due to the results of a skilled brillianteer.

Because of the costs involved with manufacturing, many diamonds on the current market are not cut in the country they are sold nor the country they are mined. In fact, because of the low cost of production compared to other countries, India is now one of the primary countries that manufactures most of the industryʼs diamonds.

Regardless of the location that diamonds are manufacturing, diamond cutting is an extremely difficult process that is to be treasured as an art. To view our selection of loose diamonds at wholesale prices, visit http://www.instylediamonds.com/rt/sform.pl?cfg=adi.

Diamond Rough & Origin

What are diamonds made of?
Unlike every other precious stone, a diamond is the only mineral made of a single element. Diamonds are composed 99.95% of carbon. The other 0.05% includes traces of other elements that are not the part of the primary chemical composition. These traces can affect both the color and shape of a diamond.

How are diamonds made?
Natural diamonds are formed under high temperature and pressure conditions approximately 90 miles beneath the earth's surface. Without these conditions, the carbon will not pressurize. The structure of a diamond's atoms contribute to its hardness. While graphite and diamonds are both composed of carbon, the pattern in which the atoms are arranged give a diamond its level of hardness. On the Mohs Scale of hardness, a diamond is given the highest rating at a 10. To view the Mohs scale of hardness, visit http://www.allaboutgemstones.com/mohs_hardness_scale.html.

Where do diamonds come from?
While diamonds come from all over the world, the most common sources are from Central and South Africa, Canada, Belgium, Brazil, Russia, Australia, and India. Each year, approximatey 130 million carats of diamonds are mined throughout the world. Because diamonds are formed in such deep surfaces below the earth, they have to be brought to shallower surfaces in order to be mined. Naturally, this process is accomplished by deep volcanic eruptions that force magma through volcanic pipes. To learn more about this process visit http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Diamonds.

Why are diamonds so expensive?
As a general answer, diamonds are expensive beacuse of supply and demand. However, it is much more complicated than that. Throughout the years, diamonds have been found in large quantities. Unfortunately, many of these diamonds are not high in quality; therefore, the ones that do possess valued characteristics, based on the 4 C's, are much more rare. This rarity is what gives diamonds their hefty price. This same concept applies with the price of larger diamonds.

Many people think that a 2.0 carat diamond will be twice as expensive as a 1.0 carat diamonds; however, if they are of the same quality, the price exponentially increases. Another reason diamonds are expensive is because they are extremely difficult to cut. This is caused not only by the nature of the stones but because cut grading has evolved to such high standards. To learn more about the 4 C's of a diamonds visit http://www.gia.edu/lab-reports-services/about-the-4cs/index.html.

To learn more about the wholesale diamond inventory we offer visit http://www.instylediamonds.com/rt/sform.pl?cfg=adi.

Let's Get Fancy: Fancy Yellow That Is

Canary Diamonds are considered one of the most rare, beautiful diamonds. While the GIA diamond scale ranges from D-Z, further down the scale a diamond will reach the color area of fancy yellow or Canary diamond.

The color of a diamond is composed from the combination of hue, tone, and saturation. Hue is the basic shade that identifies the color. The tone is the amount of lightness or darkness, while the saturation is the intensity of the color.

While the GIA recognizes 27 hues for fancy-colored diamonds, each hue represents a range. To classify each range, each hue is accompanied with specific grades. These grade levels are extremely important for colored diamonds because they determine the value. If a diamond has a stronger hue, it becomes more valuable.

How do yellow diamonds get their color?

Diamonds are conceived of 99.95% of carbon, while the other 0.05% consists of traces of other elements. For fancy yellow diamonds, traces of Nitrogen give them their natural yellow color. The more Nitrogen that exists in the atomic structure, the strength of color will increase. In other words, the more Nitrogen, the stronger yellow a diamond will be.

What is makes a yellow diamond considered Canary?

A diamond is considered a natural Canary when its hue is a pure yellow in color. This diamond group is divided into categories: Fancy Light Yellow, Fancy Yellow, Fancy Intense Yellow, and Fancy Vivid Yellow. These classifications can affect price dramatically. While a 1.00 carat fancy light yellow can cost from $4,000-$6000, a 1.00carat fancy vivid yellow diamond can cost from $20,000-$30,000. As you can tell, color is critical in determining rarity and overall value.

How does fluorescence affect a fancy yellow diamond?

Fluorescence in white diamonds is typically viewed negatively; however, in colored diamonds, especially yellow, it can increase the intensity, which adds value to the diamond. While many people think that fluorescence only comes in blue, it can also come in colors such as green,

white, orange, and yellow.

How does the clarity of a yellow diamond compare to other types of diamonds?

While there are many different types of colored diamonds, with fancy yellow diamonds, you have a much better chance of finding a clean stone. According to the GIA, in 2003, 80% if yellow diamonds graded were a VS clarity or better.

What shapes are most popular for yellow diamonds?

While round brilliant cuts are popular for white diamonds, this type of cut reduces the appearance of color due to the amount of light that reflects through the stone. Therefore, it is more popular for yellow diamonds to be cut in squarish shapes such as radiant or princess. It is also common for yellow diamonds to be oval cut.

Tips for Mounting

To enhance the color, several techniques are often used when setting yellow diamonds. One technique is to contrast the yellow diamonds by setting other colored diamonds around or beside it. Sometimes, a bezel style is better than a prong style depending on the diamond. Additionally, setters will use higher karat prongs to amplify to color of the lighter yellows. Lastly, if a ring is white gold or platinum, a yellow gold basket is used to to reflect a more intense yellow color. The diamond itself will often determine which type of setting is best. To see some of the setting styles we offer visit http://www.instylediamonds.com/rt/settings.pl?cat=6&cfg=adi.

Celebrity Yellow Diamonds

Singer Seal gave international supermodel Heidi Klum a 10 carat oval cut light, fancy yellow diamond. This beautiful stone was prong set tightly surrounded by yellow canary pave set diamonds on a 2.5mm band. The singer, Usher is also a big fan of yellow diamonds. He currently owns a watch with 1,000 tiny yellow diamonds that create his face. Legend Elton John also wears a 25 carat yellow diamond ring.

To see some of our yellow diamond inventory visit http://www.instylediamonds.com/rt/sformf.pl?cfg=adi.

A Deeper Look At Diamond Cut Grades

Often when people discuss diamonds they talk about the 4 C's, which are Carat, Color, Clarity and Cut. However, the 4th C is not often a priority for many buyers in the market. Sadly, without an adequate cut, a diamond of the best carat, color, and clarity can still look dull.

The GIA Cut Scale ranges from Excellent to Poor. The cut of a diamond gives that allure that people love. It is what draws people to the diamond. The cut of every diamond has three characteristics: brilliance, fire, and scintillation. The total amount of white light a diamond reflects is the brilliance. The colors of the spectrum the light disperses is called fire. Finally, the flashes of light, or sparkle you see when a diamond is moved is called scintillation.

To first understand how diamonds are cut, it is important to know how they are categorized. A round brilliant diamond traditionally has 58 facets and is used most commonly in all types of jewelry. All other shapes are considered fancy shapes.

When determining the value of a diamond's cut, three factors are taken into account. These include a diamond's proportions, symmetry, and polish. When looking at a round brilliant cut diamond from the side, it is divided into three sections: the crown, girdle, and pavilion. Sometimes a fourth section is included which is a tiny flat facet on the bottom called a culet. The flat facet on the top of the diamond is called the table. A diamonds proportions are based on the relationship between the table size, crown angle, and pavilion depth, all of which affect how light interacts with the diamond. If a diamond is cut too deep or shallow, light escapes through the side or bottom and does not reflect back through the crown. For more information on the GIA's 4 C's, visit http://www.gia.edu/lab-reports-services/about-the-4cs/index.html.

Overall, there are two types of diamond cuts: brilliant and step. On its side, a brilliant cut diamond extends from the center in a triangular shape. Round and princess cut diamonds are excellent examples of this. A step cut looks somewhat like a staircase when viewed through the crown.

Between each category of grading, there is a slight difference; however between an excellent and a poor cut diamond, there is a significant difference. When comparing diamond cuts, it is also to important to note the difference in price. If a diamond has an excellent cut, excellent polish, and excellent symmetry (also known as a Triple X in the jewelry industry), it will cost more than a diamond with excellent cut, very good polish, and very good symmetry and much more than a good cut, polish, and symmetry. Here at Inta Gems, we typically recommend purchasing a very good cut or above.

Many customers ask, "What is more important?" Out of the three factors that determine cut, we consider cut to be the most important. If you have a diamond that has an excellent cut with good polish and symmetry, that is a nice diamond. If you are on a tight budget and need to sacrifice color and clarity, we recommend that you attempt for a higher cut quality. Although the diamond may have a lower color and clarity, it will still have excellent brilliance, fire, and scintillation. In other words, it will still have a lot of sparkle, which is usually most important to many women, aside from carat size. For more information on our wholesale diamond inventory, visit http://www.instylediamonds.com/rt/sform.pl?cfg=adi.

A Deeper Look At Clarity

While carat weight has the greatest influence on a diamondʼs price, the second largest factor is clarity. Because of this, it is important to know the difference between each of the grades.

According to the GIA, diamond clarity is defined as the absence of blemishes or inclusions. The less of these a diamond has, the more rare and valuable it becomes. Because diamonds form deep below the earthʼs surface under extreme heat and pressure, it is common for them to contain birthmarks unique to each stone, both internal and external.

These birthmarks can come in a variety of sizes, colors, and shapes, but are ultimately categorized based on location, size, and amount.

The GIA Clarity Scale contains 11 grades: flawless, internally flawless, very very slightly included 1, very very slightly included 2, very slightly included 1, very slightly included 2, slightly included 1, slightly included 2, included 1, included 2, and included 3.

In the flawless category, inclusions and blemishes are not visible to a skilled grader using 10x magnification.

For internally flawless, only blemishes are visible to the skilled grader using 10x magnification.

In the Very, Very Slightly Included category (VVS1 and VVS2), a skilled grader has a difficult task of finding inclusions under 10x magnification.

In the Very Slight Included category (VS1 and VS2), inclusions are visible under 10x magnification but are considered minor.

For the Slightly Included category (SI1 and SI2), inclusions are quite noticeable to a grader under 10x magnification.

Lastly, the Included category (I1, I2, and I3), inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification and often affect transparency and brilliance.

Most diamonds, fall into the VS or SI categories. Luckily, most diamond buyers purchase in these two categories as well. For a customer that is on a budget, he or she is often recommended to purchase a slightly included diamond. This is because from SI2 and above, typically, inclusions are not visible from the naked eye. For a customer that prefers a cleaner diamond, it is usually recommended that he or she chooses a very, very slightly included, or very slightly included diamond.

Aside from the amount of inclusions of blemishes, the biggest difference between each category is the price. This is caused by the rarity of each category. All other factors aside, the lesser the amount of birthmarks, the more expensive the price of the diamond is. The more inclusions a diamond has, the lower the price is.

This grading system was developed to limit the misinterpretation of diamond clarity. Because of the confusion that is prevented, many jewelers that speak other languages will use these trade terms as well.

To view our selection of beautiful diamonds at wholesale prices, visit http://www.instylediamonds.com/rt/sform.pl?cfg=adi.